Surprising Slovenia

It’s easy to overlook Slovenia. Reactions when we announced our summer vacation destination included:

“You’re going where????”

“Must be getting to the bottom of your list.”

“What would you want to do that for?”

“Didn’t that used to be part of Czechoslovakia?”*

Formerly the northern-most province of Yugoslavia, Slovenia often gets lost next to it’s larger neighbors and the drum roll of newish Balkan states. Austria to the north and Italy to the west evoke old world grace and beauty. Croatia and Bosnia to the south get more news coverage, not to mention war correspondents and diplomatic missions. Even Hungary to the east was at least once the second half of a major European empire.

Despite the long shadows cast along its borders, little Slovenia manages quite well. Independent since 1991 and part of the European Union since 2004, it’s two million inhabitants are prosperous and friendly. Guidebooks describe the country as a combination of Austrian efficiency and Italian joy of living. There’s certainly truth to that, but I think Slovenia is more than just an amalgam of its neighbors.

For a start it’s probably the most beautiful country we’ve visited in Europe. It’s a beauty that sneaks up on you and seeps into your soul. It’s not spectacular like the Swiss Alps (though Slovenia does have it’s own Juilian Alps) or dream-inducing like the hills of Tuscany, but a cumulative effect. The longer you are there, the prettier it seems. Take a trip in any direction from the tidy capital of Ljubljana and you find yourself relaxing into the landscape, as if every road in the country was mapped out with the dotted green line indicating a scenic byway.

The green rolling hills, lush forests and cute villages are only part of the appeal. The obvious care and affection the Slovenians lavish on their land is also apparent. Immaculate vegetable gardens grace nearly every yard, flowers bloom in profusion, tiny vineyards line the hillsides. And throughout it all, there are far fewer of the tourist come-ons–knick knack stands and cultural demonstrations that overwhelm more famous locales. It feels more like a home than a theme park.

I could go on, and probably already have, but here are a few photos to whet your whistle.